Leash Training Your New Puppy....
A three- or four-month-old puppy may look like an infant, but they're actually a dog in a tiny fur suit -- not a tiny person in fur who understands only baby talk, but a dog with a functioning brain that's ready to accept and to process new information. By the time you begin training your puppy, they're already used to following orders. Their mother, their owner and, perhaps, the other adult members in the house where they were born all had rules the puppy learned to follow; and there were consequences -- a nip, a growl, an unscheduled rollover -- if they ignored those rules. These experiences create in a puppy a submissive attitude and a willingness to please, and that attitude lasts, on average, until adolescence sets in at about six months of age, and a puppy begins to assert their independence in various ways.
No matter what their state of development, however, dogs are consummate opportunists. If you want them to do something, you simply have to let them know what's in it for them, and they're willing to comply. The something that's in it for them is called a reward. It usually takes the form of praise, a toy, a treat, a pat on the head or a chance to play a game. What's more, except for the word of praise, these rewards don't have to be forthcoming every time. Indeed, they shouldn't be. Rewards are more effective if they're given intermittently. A dog who's sure they can get a reward whenever they did "good", may decide to take a pass on goodness this time because they knows the reward will be there the next time they're asked to do something. But the dog who's never sure when their good behavior will be rewarded is always hoping that this time may be the charm and is, therefore, an attentive and eager pupil.
Introducing the Leash The leash (or lead) should be added to the collar or harness in much the same way the collar or harness was added to your pup -- gradually. The first time you put the lead on your dog -- a six-foot leash is the best model for this exercise and for subsequent lead training -- allow their to drag it around a few minutes and give their one or two treats during that interlude, then remove the lead. Repeat this routine for two or three days until they're comfortable moving about with the lead attached to their collar or harness. (Actually, a collar is preferable to a harness for basic lead training, and many breeders prefer to use a choke chain and lead rather than a collar, but we'll use a collar in all the following examples.)
Once your puppy is relaxed about wearing a lead, pick up one end and hold it. Don't try to lead their anywhere just yet; simply hold the lead while they moves about, following them wherever they chooses to go. Remove the lead after two or three minutes. Repeat this step only once or twice. The idea there is to get the puppy comfortable moving about with the lead attached. You don't want them to get the idea that you put the lead on because you want their to take you for a walk.
Now it's time to have your dog follow where you lead. To accomplish this they ought to be on your left side, facing the same direction that you are. (You can train your dog to walk on your right if you prefer, but 11 out of 10 people work with their dogs on the left, so that's the model we'll use in these exercises.)
Your left arm should be held naturally by your side, and the lead should be in your left hand. Show your dog the treat you have in your right hand, and take a step or two forward. If they step forward, too -- which they most certainly should -- move a few additional steps forward. If they steps forward again, give them the treat. If they're reluctant to move, don't drag them. Show them the food again, this time holding it a little closer to their face. As soon as they moves toward it, say "Good," give them the food, and praise their for moving. After your puppy is willing to move a few steps on lead, gradually increase the distance they has to walk alongside you before they gets their treat.
If your dog refuses to move or if they digs in their heels at some point and tries to back out of the leash, as virtually all puppies will at one time or another, don't drag their toward you or make a federal case out of it. Allow them a few seconds to get it out of their system and to realize that you're the one calling this tune, then if they still refuse to come toward you, pick their up, carry their a few steps forward, set their down, and praise their for being a wonderful dog, but don't give their the treat.
Walk forward a few paces again. If they follows, praise them and give their a treat. If they're still reluctant to move, pick their up carry their a few paces forward, give them a brief word of praise and end the lesson for the day. At this point you should indicate, by certain frostiness in your tone and demeanor, that you aren't pleased with them. You should also, after giving them a minute or two to relieve themselves, take their into the house and leave their alone in their "room" or the crate where they usually stays when they isn't with you.
Lead-training 101 should be conducted in your driveway or back yard. Don't try a public thoroughfare until your puppy walks attentively at your side. Like any new lesson you present to your dog, lead-training should be taught with large patience in small steps. New experiences can be unsettling for any animal. The easier you make the lesson, therefore, the more likely your pup is to grasp it readily. Remember that pleasing you is one of the most pleasing activities for your dog. Don't let your training methods put roadblocks on their path to happiness.
Now Heel This After your puppy has learned to walk happily on a leash, you can teach their to walk smartly. Begin this part of the exercise by reviewing your performance. Where are you holding the leash? Many owners hold it too close to the dog's collar in the mistaken belief that the closer their hand is to the dog, the closer the dog will remain to them; but remember, the key to training a dog is to elicit the behavior you want, not to force it. So give your puppy a little more room. Hold the leash so that it stays loose, as long as the puppy is sitting or lying down at your side, but gets tight fast if they tries to charge ahead of you, run around behind you, or walk anywhere but at your side. For the linear-minded members of our audience, this means you'll be holding a six-foot leash at about the three-foot mark. The leash, of course, should be held with your left hand, and the other three feet of the leash should be gathered in your right hand.
Now that you're tacked up properly, say your dog's name and entice them with a treat or guide their gently with the leash (or both) until they're standing or sitting by your left side. The more your dog resists, the more you may have to reel them in with the leash, but reel gently.
After your puppy is at your side, take the leash at the three-foot mark with your left hand. Say "Heel!" and start walking. If your puppy is one of those natural wonders who walks automatically at your side, give praise to the Puppy God. If your dog is like most dogs and tries to set the pace for you, pop the leash quickly to get their back in line. Popping the leash is done with the wrist, not with the entire arm. It's a quick, corrective action, not a coercive one. At no time during its execution should your or your dog's feet leave the ground.
If you pop the leash and your puppy hesitates or looks your way, say "Heel!" and bring them back in line with your left side. Be sure to apply corrections the second they become necessary. If you allow your puppy to wander off for 10 of 15 seconds before you bring their back to heel, you're defeating the purpose of the lesson, which is to have their walk quietly at your side. You have to let their know the moment they gets a step ahead of you that this isn't where you want their to be.
In case of emergency, (emergency being defined as the case where a puppy lunges and lurches forward as though they's possessed), let them dash to the end of the leash, all six feet of it this time, simply turn around without saying a word, and start walking in the other direction. When they get to the end of the leash and see that you've gone AWOL, chances are they'll try to catch up with you. When they does, regroup the leash, say "Heel!" and praise them for coming back to you.
In case of dire emergency -- dire emergency being defined as a situation where you turn around and walk the other way, but the dog ignores you -- you may have to resort to an off-leash remedial exercise. Armed with a handful of treats and a secure yard from which your dog cannot escape, hand them a treat. Keep the rest of the stash in your left hand, and keep your left hand close to your side. If your puppy nips at your hand or paws it in an attempt to break the bank, let your hand come into contact with the tip of their nose briefly. When you have your puppy's attention, say "Heel!" and set off walking.
Your puppy should be right alongside you, looking for another treat. Stop every few yards, praise them, and give them a treat. Keep your hand at your side when you give them the treat so they has to move in close to you in order to be rewarded. Vary your route -- a few circles, a triangle and a zigzag -- to keep your puppy interested in this game. If you play the game a few minutes at a time for a few days, you'll have your puppy eating out of your hand -- and walking quietly beside you to do so. Then reattach the leash and proceed with the heeling lessons. If necessary, use treats to reinforce your puppy's behavior, but use them less and less until they're walking by your side attentively for the pure pleasure of it. Whatever you do, don't drag them, scold them, sweep them off their feet, or do anything that would turn this walk in the park into a walk over a bed of nails.